/* ==========================================================================
   London, Well Spent — a warm, illustrated travel-journal look
   ========================================================================== */

:root {
  --paper: #f4ecd8;
  --paper-light: #fbf6ea;
  --paper-dark: #e6d7b5;
  --ink: #2b2118;
  --ink-soft: #5a4634;
  --sepia: #7a6650;
  --red: #9b2c1f;
  --red-dark: #7a2016;
  --thames: #3d6b7d;
  --thames-light: #9fbcc4;
  --gold: #b08a3e;
  --rule: #d9c9a3;
  --shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(60, 40, 20, .12), 0 8px 24px -10px rgba(60, 40, 20, .35);
  --font-display: 'IM Fell English', 'Iowan Old Style', Georgia, serif;
  --font-sc: 'IM Fell English SC', 'IM Fell English', Georgia, serif;
  --font-body: 'EB Garamond', 'Iowan Old Style', Georgia, serif;
  --font-hand: 'Caveat', 'Segoe Print', 'Bradley Hand', cursive;
  --wrap: 1180px;
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }

html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; }

body {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--ink);
  font: 400 1.18rem/1.65 var(--font-body);
  background-color: var(--paper);
  /* Paper grain + gentle vignette */
  background-image:
    radial-gradient(ellipse at 20% 0%, rgba(255, 250, 235, .9), transparent 60%),
    radial-gradient(ellipse at 100% 100%, rgba(176, 138, 62, .16), transparent 55%),
    url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='240' height='240'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.85' numOctaves='3' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix values='0 0 0 0 .35 0 0 0 0 .25 0 0 0 0 .12 0 0 0 .09 0'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' filter='url(%23n)'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  background-attachment: fixed;
  min-height: 100vh;
  position: relative;
}

/* Optional antique-map background, set in admin Settings */
body.has-map-bg::before {
  content: '';
  position: fixed;
  inset: 0;
  z-index: -1;
  background-size: cover;
  background-position: center;
  opacity: .13;
  filter: sepia(.6) contrast(.9);
  mix-blend-mode: multiply;
  pointer-events: none;
}

img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; display: block; }
a { color: var(--red); text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: .18em; }
a:hover { color: var(--red-dark); text-decoration-thickness: 2px; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px dashed var(--thames); outline-offset: 3px; }

h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.15; color: var(--ink); margin: 0 0 .5em; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 5vw, 3.6rem); letter-spacing: -.01em; }
h2 { font-size: clamp(1.6rem, 3vw, 2.1rem); }
h3 { font-size: 1.4rem; }
p { margin: 0 0 1em; }

.wrap { max-width: var(--wrap); margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 1.25rem; }
.sr-only, .hp { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: -999px; top: 0; background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); padding: .5rem 1rem; z-index: 100; }
.skip:focus { left: 1rem; }
.muted { color: var(--sepia); }
.small { font-size: .9rem; }
.center { text-align: center; }
.no-scroll { overflow: hidden; }

.eyebrow {
  display: inline-block;
  font-family: var(--font-sc);
  font-size: 1rem;
  letter-spacing: .14em;
  color: var(--red);
  text-decoration: none;
  margin: 0 0 .4rem;
}
.handwritten { font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.35rem; color: var(--ink-soft); line-height: 1.2; }
.lead { font-size: 1.32rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }

/* ---------- Header ---------- */

.site-header { position: relative; padding-top: 1.4rem; margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.header-inner { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1.5rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.logo { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .9rem; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); }
.logo:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.compass { width: 58px; height: 58px; color: var(--ink); flex: none; transition: transform .8s ease; }
.logo:hover .compass { transform: rotate(-20deg); }
.logo-text { display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.logo-name { font-family: var(--font-sc); font-size: clamp(1.7rem, 3.5vw, 2.4rem); line-height: 1; letter-spacing: .02em; }
.logo-tag { font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.15rem; color: var(--sepia); max-width: 34ch; line-height: 1.15; margin-top: .25rem; }

.site-nav { display: flex; gap: 1.6rem; }
.site-nav a {
  font-family: var(--font-sc);
  font-size: 1.15rem;
  letter-spacing: .05em;
  color: var(--ink);
  text-decoration: none;
  padding: .2rem 0;
  border-bottom: 2px solid transparent;
}
.site-nav a:hover, .site-nav a[aria-current] { border-bottom-color: var(--red); color: var(--ink); }
.nav-toggle { display: none; }

/* ---------- Thames outline ---------- */

.thames { display: block; width: 100%; overflow: visible; }
.thames path { fill: none; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }
.thames-bank { stroke: var(--ink-soft); stroke-width: 12; opacity: .55; }
.thames-water { stroke: var(--thames-light); stroke-width: 9; }
.thames-ripple { stroke: var(--paper-light); stroke-width: 1; stroke-dasharray: 3 9; opacity: .9; }
.site-header .header-inner { position: relative; z-index: 1; }
/* Header: the real river, faint, like a map showing through the page */
.thames-header {
  position: absolute; left: 50%; top: -.5rem; z-index: 0;
  width: min(1180px, 100%); height: auto; transform: translateX(-50%);
  opacity: .32; pointer-events: none;
}
.thames-header .thames-bank { stroke-width: 9; }
.thames-header .thames-water { stroke-width: 6; }
.site-header { min-height: 130px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); padding-bottom: 1rem; }
.thames-labels text { font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 21px; fill: var(--sepia); }
.thames-labels text.small { font-size: 16px; }
.thames-labels circle { fill: var(--red); }
.thames-footer { max-width: 1180px; margin: 0 auto; height: auto; padding: 0 1rem; }

/* ---------- Buttons, forms ---------- */

.btn {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; gap: .4rem;
  font: 400 1.05rem/1 var(--font-sc);
  letter-spacing: .06em;
  background: var(--red);
  color: var(--paper-light);
  border: 0;
  border-radius: 3px;
  padding: .78rem 1.25rem;
  cursor: pointer;
  text-decoration: none;
  box-shadow: 0 2px 0 var(--red-dark);
  transition: transform .1s, box-shadow .1s, background .2s;
}
.btn:hover { background: var(--red-dark); color: var(--paper-light); }
.btn:active { transform: translateY(2px); box-shadow: none; }
.btn:disabled { background: var(--sepia); box-shadow: none; cursor: default; }
.btn-small { font-size: .92rem; padding: .55rem .9rem; }
.btn-large { font-size: 1.2rem; padding: 1rem 1.6rem; }
.btn-ghost { background: transparent; color: var(--red); box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 1.5px var(--red); }
.btn-ghost:hover { background: var(--red); color: var(--paper-light); }

input[type=text], input[type=email], input[type=search], textarea, select {
  font: inherit; font-size: 1.05rem;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--paper-light);
  border: 1px solid var(--rule);
  border-bottom: 2px solid var(--sepia);
  border-radius: 2px;
  padding: .6rem .75rem;
  width: 100%;
}
input:focus, textarea:focus, select:focus { outline: none; border-color: var(--thames); box-shadow: 0 0 0 3px rgba(61, 107, 125, .18); }
label { display: block; font-size: 1rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
label input, label textarea { margin-top: .3rem; }

.flash { padding: .85rem 1.1rem; margin: 0 0 1.4rem; border-left: 4px solid var(--thames); background: rgba(159, 188, 196, .25); font-size: 1.05rem; }
.flash-error { border-color: var(--red); background: rgba(155, 44, 31, .1); }
.flash-warn { border-color: var(--gold); background: rgba(176, 138, 62, .15); }

/* ---------- Home / listing ---------- */

.hero { max-width: 760px; margin: 1.5rem auto 2.5rem; text-align: center; }
.hero h1 { font-family: var(--font-sc); font-size: clamp(2.6rem, 7vw, 4.6rem); margin-bottom: .3em; }
.hero-intro { font-size: 1.28rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.hero-intro p:first-child::first-letter {
  font-family: var(--font-display); float: left; font-size: 3.6em; line-height: .8; padding: .08em .1em 0 0; color: var(--red);
}
.hero-intro { text-align: left; }

.page-head { text-align: center; margin: 1.5rem 0 2rem; }

.breadcrumbs { font-size: .98rem; color: var(--sepia); margin: .5rem 0 1.2rem; }
.breadcrumbs a { color: var(--sepia); }
.breadcrumbs span { margin: 0 .3rem; }

.filters {
  display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem 1.6rem; align-items: center; justify-content: center;
  padding: 1rem 0 1.4rem; margin-bottom: 2rem;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule);
}
.area-filter { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .6rem; }
.area-filter label { font-family: var(--font-sc); letter-spacing: .05em; }
.area-filter select { width: auto; min-width: 13rem; padding: .4rem .6rem; }
.tag-chips { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .45rem; list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; justify-content: center; }
.tag-chips a {
  display: inline-block; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink-soft);
  font-size: 1rem; padding: .22rem .7rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 999px; background: rgba(251, 246, 234, .7);
}
.tag-chips a small { color: var(--sepia); font-size: .8em; }
.tag-chips a:hover { border-color: var(--red); color: var(--red); }
.tag-chips a[aria-current] { background: var(--ink); border-color: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); }
.tag-chips a[aria-current] small { color: var(--paper-dark); }

.card-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(320px, 1fr)); gap: 2.4rem 2rem; margin-bottom: 3rem; }
.card-grid-3 { grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(280px, 1fr)); }
.grid-ad { grid-column: 1 / -1; }

.card {
  background: var(--paper-light);
  padding: .8rem .8rem 1.2rem;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow);
  position: relative;
  transition: transform .25s ease, box-shadow .25s ease;
}
.card::before { /* washi tape */
  content: ''; position: absolute; top: -11px; left: 50%; width: 92px; height: 24px;
  transform: translateX(-50%) rotate(-3deg);
  background: rgba(159, 188, 196, .55);
  box-shadow: 0 1px 1px rgba(0, 0, 0, .06);
}
.card.tilt-0 { transform: rotate(-.6deg); }
.card.tilt-1 { transform: rotate(.5deg); }
.card.tilt-1::before { background: rgba(176, 138, 62, .4); transform: translateX(-50%) rotate(2deg); }
.card.tilt-2 { transform: rotate(-.2deg); }
.card.tilt-2::before { background: rgba(155, 44, 31, .25); }
.card:hover { transform: rotate(0) translateY(-4px); box-shadow: 0 2px 4px rgba(60, 40, 20, .12), 0 18px 32px -14px rgba(60, 40, 20, .45); }
.card-media { display: block; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; overflow: hidden; background: var(--paper-dark); }
.card-media img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; filter: sepia(.12) saturate(.95); }
.card-placeholder {
  display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; justify-content: center; height: 100%; gap: .4rem;
  background: repeating-linear-gradient(0deg, transparent 0 27px, rgba(61, 107, 125, .12) 27px 28px), var(--paper);
}
.card-placeholder .thames { width: 92%; height: auto; }
.card-placeholder .thames-bank { stroke-width: 6; }
.card-placeholder .thames-water { stroke-width: 4; }
.card-placeholder .thames-ripple { display: none; }
.card-placeholder span { font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.8rem; color: var(--sepia); }
.card-body { padding: 1rem .4rem 0; }
.card-area { font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.3rem; color: var(--thames); text-decoration: none; }
.card-title { font-size: 1.65rem; margin: .1rem 0 .5rem; }
.card-title a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.card-title a:hover { color: var(--red); }
.card-summary { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 1.06rem; }

.stop-icons { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: .1rem; color: var(--sepia); margin: 0 0 .7rem; }
.stop-icons .icon + .icon::before { content: ''; }
.stop-icons .icon { width: 24px; height: 24px; padding: 2px; }
.stop-icons .icon:not(:last-child) { margin-right: 10px; position: relative; }

.icon { width: 1.2em; height: 1.2em; vertical-align: -.2em; flex: none; }
.icon-sm { width: 1em; height: 1em; }

.tag-list { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .25rem .8rem; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.tag-list a { color: var(--sepia); text-decoration: none; font-size: .98rem; }
.tag-list a:hover { color: var(--red); text-decoration: underline; }

.pagination { display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; gap: 1.5rem; margin: 0 0 3rem; font-family: var(--font-sc); }
.empty { text-align: center; font-size: 1.2rem; padding: 3rem 0; }

/* ---------- Itinerary ---------- */

.itin-head { max-width: 820px; margin: 0 auto 2rem; text-align: center; }
.itin-head .tag-list { justify-content: center; }
.byline { color: var(--sepia); font-size: 1rem; font-style: italic; }
.byline a { color: var(--sepia); }

.taped { position: relative; }
.taped::before, .taped::after {
  content: ''; position: absolute; width: 110px; height: 26px; top: -12px; z-index: 2;
  background: rgba(176, 138, 62, .38); box-shadow: 0 1px 1px rgba(0, 0, 0, .06);
}
.taped::before { left: -18px; transform: rotate(-32deg); }
.taped::after { right: -18px; transform: rotate(30deg); background: rgba(159, 188, 196, .5); }

.itin-cover { margin: 0 auto 2.8rem; max-width: 980px; background: var(--paper-light); padding: .8rem; box-shadow: var(--shadow); transform: rotate(-.4deg); }
.itin-cover img { width: 100%; filter: sepia(.1); }
.itin-cover figcaption { font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.25rem; color: var(--sepia); padding-top: .5rem; text-align: center; }

.itin-layout { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 290px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 3rem; align-items: start; }
.itin-facts {
  position: sticky; top: 1.2rem;
  background: var(--paper-light);
  border: 1px solid var(--rule);
  padding: 1.2rem 1.3rem;
  box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--rule), 4px 4px 0 var(--paper-dark);
  background-image: repeating-linear-gradient(0deg, transparent 0 29px, rgba(61, 107, 125, .1) 29px 30px);
}
.itin-facts dl { margin: 0 0 1rem; }
.itin-facts dl > div { padding: .45rem 0; border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--rule); }
.itin-facts dt { font-family: var(--font-sc); font-size: .95rem; letter-spacing: .06em; color: var(--red); display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .35rem; }
.itin-facts dd { margin: .1rem 0 0; font-size: 1.05rem; }
.mini-stops { margin: 0; padding-left: 1.4rem; font-size: 1rem; line-height: 1.45; }
.mini-stops li { margin: .3rem 0; }
.mini-stops a { color: var(--ink-soft); text-decoration: none; }
.mini-stops a:hover { color: var(--red); }
.mini-stops .icon { color: var(--sepia); }

.map-frame { margin: 0 0 2.4rem; background: var(--paper-light); padding: .7rem .7rem .4rem; box-shadow: var(--shadow); transform: rotate(.3deg); }
.itin-map { height: 440px; background: var(--paper-dark); }
.map-frame figcaption { text-align: center; padding: .4rem 0 .1rem; font-size: 1.15rem; }

/* Give modern OSM tiles an aged-paper look */
.itin-map .leaflet-tile-pane { filter: sepia(.55) saturate(.75) contrast(.92) brightness(1.03) hue-rotate(-8deg); }
.leaflet-container { font-family: var(--font-body); }
.leaflet-control-attribution { font-size: 11px; background: rgba(251, 246, 234, .85) !important; }
.pin {
  display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;
  width: 30px; height: 30px; border-radius: 50%;
  background: var(--paper-light); color: var(--ink);
  border: 2px solid var(--ink);
  font: 700 15px/1 var(--font-body);
  box-shadow: 0 2px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, .25);
}
.pin-start { background: var(--thames); color: #fff; border-color: #24434f; }
.pin-end { background: var(--red); color: #fff; border-color: var(--red-dark); }
.map-popup { display: grid; gap: .15rem; min-width: 170px; font-size: 1rem; }
.map-popup .icon { width: 22px; height: 22px; color: var(--red); }
.map-popup-type { font-family: var(--font-sc); font-size: .85rem; color: var(--sepia); }
.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper { background: var(--paper-light); border-radius: 3px; }

.itin-intro { font-size: 1.22rem; margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.prose p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; }
.prose ul { padding-left: 1.3rem; }
.prose h3 { margin-top: 1.4em; }

.stops { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; position: relative; }
.stops::before { /* dotted walking line */
  content: ''; position: absolute; left: 21px; top: 20px; bottom: 20px;
  border-left: 2px dashed var(--sepia); opacity: .45;
}
.stop { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 44px 1fr; gap: 1.2rem; padding: 0 0 2.6rem; position: relative; scroll-margin-top: 1rem; }
.stop-marker span {
  display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center;
  width: 44px; height: 44px; border-radius: 50%;
  background: var(--paper-light); border: 2px solid var(--ink);
  font: 400 1.4rem/1 var(--font-display);
  position: relative; z-index: 1;
}
.stop:first-child .stop-marker span { background: var(--thames); color: #fff; border-color: #24434f; }
.stop:last-child .stop-marker span { background: var(--red); color: #fff; border-color: var(--red-dark); }
.stop-type { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .4rem; font-family: var(--font-sc); font-size: .98rem; letter-spacing: .06em; color: var(--red); margin: .4rem 0 .2rem; }
.stop-type .icon { width: 26px; height: 26px; color: var(--ink); }
.stop-name { font-size: 1.85rem; margin-bottom: .2rem; }
.stop-name a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration-color: var(--rule); }
.stop-name a:hover { color: var(--red); }
.stop-name .ext { font-size: .6em; color: var(--sepia); vertical-align: super; }
.stop-address { color: var(--sepia); font-style: italic; font-size: 1rem; margin-bottom: .7rem; }
.stop-links { font-size: .98rem; margin-top: .8rem; }
.stop-links a { color: var(--thames); }
.stop-ad { list-style: none; margin: 0 0 2.6rem 64px; }

.polaroid { margin: 0; background: #fffdf6; padding: .5rem .5rem .3rem; box-shadow: var(--shadow); }
.polaroid img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; }
.polaroid figcaption { text-align: center; font-size: 1.15rem; padding: .3rem .2rem; }
.polaroid.tilt-0 { transform: rotate(-1.4deg); }
.polaroid.tilt-1 { transform: rotate(1.1deg); }
.polaroid.tilt-2 { transform: rotate(-.4deg); }
.photo-strip { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(180px, 1fr)); gap: 1.2rem; margin: 1.2rem 0 .5rem; }
.gallery { margin: 1rem 0 2.5rem; }
.gallery-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(220px, 1fr)); gap: 1.6rem; }

.share { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: .8rem; padding: 1.4rem 0; border-top: 1px dashed var(--rule); }

.subscribe-box {
  max-width: 720px; margin: 3.5rem auto; padding: 2rem 2rem 1.6rem; text-align: center;
  background: var(--paper-light); box-shadow: var(--shadow);
}
.subscribe-form { max-width: 520px; margin: 0 auto; text-align: left; }
.subscribe-row { display: flex; gap: .5rem; margin: .4rem 0; }
.subscribe-row input { flex: 1; }
.subscribe-form small { color: var(--sepia); font-size: .9rem; }
.subscribe-form small a { color: var(--sepia); }

.comments { max-width: 760px; margin: 3rem auto; }
.comments h2 small { font-size: .6em; color: var(--sepia); }
.comment-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 2rem; }
.comment { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 46px 1fr; gap: 1rem; padding: 1.1rem 0; border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--rule); }
.avatar { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; width: 46px; height: 46px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--paper-dark); font: 1.4rem var(--font-display); color: var(--ink-soft); }
.comment-meta { margin: 0 0 .25rem; font-size: 1rem; color: var(--sepia); }
.comment-meta strong { color: var(--ink); }
.comment-form { background: var(--paper-light); padding: 1.5rem; border: 1px solid var(--rule); display: grid; gap: 1rem; }
.comment-form h3 { margin: 0; }
.form-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 1rem; }
.comment-form .btn { justify-self: start; }

.related { margin: 3rem 0; }
.related > h2 { text-align: center; }

/* ---------- Pages ---------- */

.page { margin: 1rem auto 4rem; }
.page.narrow { max-width: 680px; }
.page.center .subscribe-form { margin-top: 1.5rem; }
.about-grid { max-width: 720px; margin-top: 1rem; }
.about-photo .polaroid img { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; }
.polaroid.placeholder { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; justify-content: center; gap: 1rem; }
.polaroid.placeholder .compass { width: 120px; height: 120px; color: var(--sepia); }
.link-list { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: .6rem 1.4rem; list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 1.6rem 0 0; font-family: var(--font-sc); }
.donate-buttons { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: center; gap: 1rem; margin: 2rem 0; }

/* ---------- Ads ---------- */

.ad { margin: 1.5rem auto; text-align: center; padding: .6rem; border: 1px dashed var(--rule); background: rgba(251, 246, 234, .5); }
.ad-label { display: block; font-family: var(--font-sc); font-size: .75rem; letter-spacing: .14em; color: var(--sepia); margin-bottom: .3rem; }

.interstitial { position: fixed; inset: 0; z-index: 9999; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; padding: 1.5rem; background: rgba(43, 33, 24, .72); backdrop-filter: blur(2px); }
.interstitial-card { background: var(--paper-light); padding: 2rem; max-width: 560px; width: 100%; box-shadow: 0 20px 60px rgba(0, 0, 0, .4); text-align: center; }
.interstitial-content { margin: 1rem 0 1.5rem; }
.interstitial-close { min-width: 14rem; }

/* ---------- Lightbox ---------- */

.lightbox { border: 0; padding: .8rem; background: #fffdf6; max-width: min(92vw, 1400px); box-shadow: 0 20px 60px rgba(0, 0, 0, .5); }
.lightbox::backdrop { background: rgba(43, 33, 24, .85); }
.lightbox img { max-height: 80vh; width: auto; margin: 0 auto; }
.lightbox p { text-align: center; margin: .5rem 0 0; }
.lightbox-close { position: absolute; top: .2rem; right: .5rem; border: 0; background: none; font-size: 2rem; cursor: pointer; color: var(--ink); }

/* ---------- Footer ---------- */

.site-footer { margin-top: 4rem; padding-bottom: 2rem; }
.footer-inner { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.3fr 1fr; gap: 2rem; align-items: start; padding-top: 1rem; }
.footer-name { font-family: var(--font-sc); font-size: 1.5rem; margin-bottom: .2rem; }
.footer-about p:last-child { color: var(--sepia); font-size: 1rem; }
.footer-links { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: .3rem; font-size: 1rem; }
.footer-links a { color: var(--ink-soft); }
.footer-small { color: var(--sepia); font-size: .9rem; text-align: center; margin-top: 2rem; }
.subscribe-form.compact label { margin-bottom: .2rem; }

/* ---------- Responsive ---------- */

@media (max-width: 960px) {
  .itin-layout { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 2rem; }
  .itin-facts { position: static; }
  .footer-inner { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .about-photo { max-width: 300px; margin: 0 auto; }
}

@media (max-width: 720px) {
  body { font-size: 1.1rem; }
  .nav-toggle {
    display: inline-block; font: 1rem var(--font-sc); letter-spacing: .08em;
    background: none; border: 1.5px solid var(--ink); color: var(--ink); padding: .4rem .8rem; border-radius: 3px;
  }
  .site-nav { display: none; width: 100%; flex-direction: column; gap: .2rem; padding: .5rem 0; }
  .nav-open .site-nav { display: flex; }
  .compass { width: 46px; height: 46px; }
  .logo-tag { display: none; }
  .itin-map { height: 340px; }
  .stop { grid-template-columns: 36px 1fr; gap: .9rem; }
  .stop-marker span { width: 36px; height: 36px; font-size: 1.15rem; }
  .stops::before { left: 17px; }
  .stop-ad { margin-left: 0; }
  .form-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .subscribe-row { flex-direction: column; }
  .card-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .taped::before, .taped::after { width: 70px; }
}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  *, *::before, *::after { transition: none !important; scroll-behavior: auto !important; }
}

@media print {
  .site-header .thames, .site-nav, .filters, .ad, .subscribe-box, .comments, .related, .share, .site-footer, .itin-facts .mini-stops { display: none !important; }
  body { background: #fff; }
  .card, .polaroid, .map-frame, .itin-cover { box-shadow: none; transform: none; }
  .taped::before, .taped::after, .card::before { display: none; }
}

/* Keep decorative overflow (Thames ends, tilted cards, tape) from causing sideways scroll */
html { overflow-x: clip; }
.site-header, .site-footer { overflow-x: clip; }
.card-media, .card-placeholder span { text-decoration: none; }
.hp { left: -10000px; top: 0; }
#main { position: relative; z-index: 1; }
@media (max-width: 720px) {
  .thames-header { display: none; }
  .thames-labels text { display: none; }
}

/* ---------- Area badges (stylised local maps) ---------- */
.area-badge { display: block; width: 100%; height: auto; overflow: visible; }
.am-paper { fill: #fbf6ea; }
.am-ring { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 2.2; }
.am-ring-thin { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink-soft); stroke-width: .7; }
.am-land { fill: #f3ead3; }
.am-edge { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.4; }
.am-grid { fill: none; stroke: #c9b78f; stroke-width: .5; stroke-dasharray: 1 3; }
.am-water { fill: #c3d6db; stroke: #8fb0b8; stroke-width: 2; fill-rule: evenodd; }
.am-green { fill: #d3dba6; stroke: #a9b27a; stroke-width: 2; fill-rule: evenodd; }
.am-building { fill: #e2d4b2; stroke: #bba57e; stroke-width: 1.4; fill-rule: evenodd; }
.am-river-bank { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink-soft); stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; opacity: .55; }
.am-river { fill: none; stroke: #b7cfd5; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
/* Lines below are drawn at 4x and scaled down, so their widths are 4x too */
.am-minor { fill: none; stroke: #a8936e; stroke-width: 4; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.am-mid { fill: none; stroke: #7d6a4f; stroke-width: 7; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.am-major-case { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink-soft); stroke-width: 17; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.am-major { fill: none; stroke: #f1e6c8; stroke-width: 10; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.am-rail { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 5; stroke-dasharray: 16 10; }
.am-route { fill: none; stroke: var(--red); stroke-width: 2.2; stroke-dasharray: 5 4; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.am-stop circle { fill: #fbf6ea; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.6; }
.am-stop text { font: 700 10px var(--font-body); fill: var(--ink); text-anchor: middle; }
.am-first circle { fill: var(--thames); stroke: #24434f; }
.am-last circle { fill: var(--red); stroke: var(--red-dark); }
.am-first text, .am-last text { fill: #fff; }
.am-title { font: 17px var(--font-sc); letter-spacing: .16em; fill: var(--ink); text-anchor: middle; }
.am-sub { font: 10px var(--font-sc); letter-spacing: .3em; fill: var(--sepia); text-anchor: middle; }
.am-compass circle { fill: rgba(251, 246, 234, .85); stroke: var(--ink-soft); stroke-width: .8; }
.am-compass path { fill: var(--ink); }
.am-compass path.n { fill: var(--red); }
.am-scale path { stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.2; fill: none; }
.am-scale text { font: 9px var(--font-body); fill: var(--ink); text-anchor: middle; }

.card-map { padding: 6% 0; background: radial-gradient(circle at 50% 50%, rgba(255, 252, 242, .9), transparent 70%), var(--paper); }
.card-map .area-badge { width: auto; height: 100%; max-height: 100%; margin: 0 auto; filter: drop-shadow(0 2px 3px rgba(60, 40, 20, .18)); }
.card-media { position: relative; }
.card-stamp {
  position: absolute; right: 8px; bottom: 8px; width: 34%; max-width: 130px;
  transform: rotate(-8deg); filter: drop-shadow(0 2px 4px rgba(0, 0, 0, .35));
}
.card:hover .card-stamp { transform: rotate(-3deg); transition: transform .3s; }
.facts-badge-wrap { width: 78%; margin: -.2rem auto 1rem; transform: rotate(-3deg); }